Frequently Asked Questions

HomeGuide's national range is $1.50 to $5.00 per square foot installed, with closed-cell at the top of that range, and many installers have a minimum of $1,000 to $2,000 or more. A rim joist job often lands around $2,000 to $2,500. We give a written price after seeing the house, and that price is what you pay.

Ohio's residential code puts Richland County and its neighbors in Climate Zone 5, with R-49 for ceilings, R-20 (or R-13 plus R-5 continuous) for wood-frame walls and R-30 for floors over unheated space. For existing attics, ENERGY STAR suggests R-60 when there is nothing there now, or adding R-49 over 3 to 4 inches of old insulation.

Problems come from poor installs, not the material itself: foam mixed or sprayed wrong can smell and pull away from framing, and foam sprayed over a leaking roof deck can hide rot for years. Some buyers and inspectors want to see the roof deck, so we check the roof first and document what we spray.

Usually because it was installed badly, because it is hiding a leak or rot that has to be repaired, or because a remodel or sale requires access. Removal is slow hand work; HomeGuide puts it at about $1.00 to $2.50 per square foot. Getting the install right the first time is cheaper.

Closed-cell, in almost every case. Basement walls and rim joists sit against cold, sometimes damp masonry, and closed-cell foam resists moisture and gives more R-value per inch. Open-cell can absorb moisture there.

Yes. HomeGuide advises staying out for at least 24 hours after spray foam is applied. We close off and ventilate the work area and tell you when it is safe to return. Blown-in insulation does not require that.

Several large chemical companies make the two-part systems installers spray, and suppliers in Ohio carry multiple brands. What matters more than the label is that the product is rated for the use, that it is mixed at the right temperature and ratio, and that it gets the thermal or ignition barrier the code requires where it is left exposed.

Not as a rule. Foam has to stick to a clean surface. Old batts are pulled from rim joists and walls first; on an attic floor, we seal the gaps and add blown-in on top instead.

Most foams need a thermal barrier such as drywall in living spaces, and an ignition barrier in some attics and crawl spaces, depending on the product listing and local code. We tell you which applies before we spray.

Properly installed, it stays in place for the life of the building. It does not settle the way loose fill can.

Ohio's residential energy table lists R-49 for ceilings in Zone 5, which includes Mansfield. That applies to new work; for existing homes it is the usual target, and ENERGY STAR suggests up to R-60.

Only if the air leaks are sealed too. Ice dams come from warm air reaching the roof. Sealing is what stops that; insulation keeps the heat from conducting through.

Usually not. Sealing gaps and blowing in loose fill reaches the same R-value for less. Foam on the roof deck makes sense when ducts or a furnace are up there.

For R-49, roughly 13 to 16 inches depending on the material. We leave depth markers so you can see it.

In an older house, often yes. It is a modest job, HomeGuide lists rim joist foam at about $2,000 to $2,500, and it closes one of the biggest leaks in the house.

No. Foam slows vapor but does not stop liquid water. Leaks and drainage need to be fixed first.

In a finished or occupied basement, most foams need a thermal barrier such as drywall. We tell you what the product requires.

It closes many of the gaps they use, which helps, but it is not pest control. We point out entry points we see.

It depends on use. A cold storage barn may need only enough to stop condensation; a heated shop needs more. We size it to how you use the building.

Yes, with care. The steel and the foam both need to be within a working temperature range, so we may need heat in the building first.

Yes. Dripping comes from moist air hitting cold steel. Foam bonded to the steel removes that cold surface.

Rules for agricultural buildings differ from houses. Check with the Richland County building department for your project.

Yes. Dense-pack insulation is blown in through small holes, often from outside under the siding.

Injection foams exist, but in most closed walls we recommend dense-pack. Foam is best when walls are open.

Live knob-and-tube should not be buried in insulation. An electrician should assess it first.

We patch carefully, but some touch-up paint is usually needed on interior patches.

Signs include water stains, a matted look, droppings or nests, a strong odor, or visible mold. We check during the estimate.

No. Vermiculite should be tested and handled by an asbestos abatement contractor. We stop work if we find it.

Vacuum removal keeps the material contained. We protect the path through the house.

Not always. Sometimes only a damaged section comes out and the rest gets topped up.